Friday, July 31, 2009

Old Habit: New Location















On location at Westhaven State Park in Westport, Washington, I'm officially toast. I've just got nothing left to give.

The sun is out, the waves are still crashing and I'm typing up a blog in Chuck, our Westy. I just had a Seattle-based surfer, Melinda, take my photo as evidence I actually donned my wetsuit and brought my surfboard to beach.

You'll have to take my word when I say I caught the first wave I paddled into and that it was my first wave in about four years.

Then the waves started crashing in three different directions and I could hardly get through the white water and shore break. Being out of shape, I got worked and had to hang it up.

But I'll be back - very soon.

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Daniel Joseph Riccardo...

Has arrived!

Congratulations Jill and Dan. I can only imagine what it took both of you to make it through this pregnancy. I guess that's your introduction to parenting. But you're done with that phase and now and your little person is here.

Lindsay and I hope you both are enjoying every second of this first lap his race to grow up too quick!

Monday, July 27, 2009

Home

Here's a different balcony shot.

It's the Elephant Buddha I bought for the house - now at the house. It's supposed to bring prosperity. I think I already found it though.















My Thailand trip ended the way they began - in first class.

By the time I got to Dallas, I'd spent about the last 24 hours on an airplane in the same clothes, smelled like it and even worse - looked like it. So when I asked the guy at the counter for some sympathy he slid me into first class for the last two legs of the trip. Sure beat sleeping face-down on my tray table for hours on the first two flights.

What should have been a simple departure very early July 19, turned into a five-day nightmare of trying to get out of Bangkok back to Portland, only to get the most miserable flight out possible.

My first mistake was trying to reason why someone would purchase the following itinerary for a guy trying to get to Oregon: Bangkok to Seoul (8 hours), Seoul to Dallas (14 hours), Dallas to Salt Lake City (3 hours) and finally on to Portland for an additional 2.5 hours.

Nonetheless I made it home. And even w/ the departure fiasco of being chained to my computer and arguing w/ authority for some consideration over a five-day out-of-pocket extended stay in Bangkok, followed by my awesome flight series home - I still wouldn't have traded this trip.

It still stands as the experience of a lifetime. Now that I'm home all the details are starting to set in. My revived Navy career stands at the forefront of the realizations.

Nearly every night since I landed in Thailand I've had vivid dreams of the USS Sacramento and my first trips there - or at least some variation of them. It seemed as though the memories I left there were happy to see me again and rushed me at night.

Even today at the veggie market here in Aberdeen, I heard the Rolling Stones' "Ruby Tuesday." The memory faucet came on, this time bringing a feeling and a mind state. If this trip did nothing but brought back a feeling I loved so much, then it was worth it.

The real challenge now is trying to keep that feeling alive. You'd think it were easy being such a part of who I am and how I love to be. But it's not. Reality challenges me at every turn. Luckily I'm going back this time next year.

Also - I crashed my helicopter! We suffered a rear-rotor failure at about 150 feet. I caught a bad destabilizing gust, throwing me into downward spin. With no forward or aft movement capabilities, we struck the ground at terminal speeds. Luckily, no one was injured. However the aircraft is severely damaged and out of commission till I can find a hobby shop.

Bummer...

Friday, July 24, 2009

Hello From Korea



Thais spoil you and that makes being here in Korea a sad culture shock of an experience. No more vibrant people and colorful sights to be had.

It's clear to me the Koreans at this airport could give a shit less if you're here - let alone happy or not. The woman who made my coffee was the only smile out of the hundreds I've smiled to.

It all kind of hit me when I was at the counter here at this internet cafe near my terminal. A woman was trying to pay for a phone card with American dollars. She only had six singles or a hundred, but needed $8.

The woman behind the counter was about to turn her away before I reached for my credit card to pay the measily two-dollar difference.

The woman who needed the money turned to me, clasped her hands together, bowed her head and said, "kawp kun kah." That's how a woman says thank you in Thai. Then she gave me 100 baht and explained she was headed to the US to work for a dying man in Honolulu. She couldn't have been more appreciative.

The woman behind the counter seemed floored at what just happened between us. I think the story says a lot.

Furthermore, while not a person here has even greeted me, I met all these wonderful kids just eight hours ago in Bangkok. Their teacher and I had such a great conversation we exchanged email addresses. These middle and high-school-age kids perform traditional Thai music and dance at the airport. It's absolutely beautiful. I hope to catch it when I return.






One More Time


























Break out the wallet, passport, tripod, camera and Lonely Planet book one more time. Yet another day of waiting for the Navy to get me a ticket out of here means I've been cooped up in hotels, airports or more more hotels for the last three days. So that's it!

Time to find pork balls from street vendors and satisfy my new-found thirst for lemongrass and cilantro in soup.

Today's adventure will include Wat Phra Kew, the Grand Palace and some museums.

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Kon Kub















That means good bye. It's incredibly difficult to say goodbye to this place - more specifically this trip.

I'll be frankly honest. I miss the hell out of my family, but I'm not at all excited about going back to Gray's Harbor, the worksource, my broken car, cramped house, money shortage, college or any of the other stresses I have in life.

Not wanting to leave here is less a matter of going back to reality or life in Grays Harbor as much as it is all the positive changes happening here for me on this trip and the opportunities I've taken advantage of.

Just like my previous trips here, Thailand has affected me in so many ways. Even with its sex-driven economy, notoriously dirty cities and less-than desired climate, the people and culture of this place are guaranteed to change your outlook on life. And in this case the change is for the better.

I chatted w/ an old buddy this evening about the previous trips to Thailand. Seems everyone wants to come back and I got to. If I came away with nothing else from this trip (which is definitely not the case) I would say I'm gracious to the Navy, people of this wonderful place and whoever else had a role in bringing me back here.

Umbrella!















That was today's recurring theme. I started my day off getting a free yellow umbrella from Western Union and gave it away to one of the Thais working here at the hotel. Then I found a whole new umbrella later in the night. I needed both umbrellas because when it rains it pours here - whether it's a monsoon or things going wrong w/ travel. Just another standard day in Thailand...

Sometimes you have excuses not to party. And I had a good one last night. My plane was leaving in just a few very short hours and I couldn't get all banged up and try to board my flight. But things changed when I called to verify my flight departure I learned I was actually going out a day later. So that was the point where I exchanged my excuse not to party for a pretty good excuse to party - not leaving Bangkok and hanging out w/ two hilarious Germans.















These two girls told me a bunch about German culture, from language, customs, geography, smoking and history to what it's like to live as a 20-something in Europe.

Above all I learned Germans freakin' love drinking their beer and love singing while they drink it even more.

I met Stefanie and Noed (I think that is her name - I'm terrible at that) outside the Elephant Bar here as I was checking the last box on my list of things to do while on vacation - have my fancy pants drink.














Now I rarely drink liquor, but I had to try the Thai whiskey. And it was surprisingly good on ice. The ice dilutes the liquor so it's easy to drink. No disappointment with my fancy pants drink, but I was dying for a cigarette and that's where I met the girls. I checked my flight status and got all the excuse I needed to have a great time.

Long story short, we drank very late and they spent most of the evening singing a song about an umbrella. It's really about being so drunk you look worse than the German prime minister, have a hole in your head where your brains fell out and can't function because you love your beer. I couldn't recite the first words they were telling me, due to no lack of effort on their part. But when Stefanie drew a pig and a dog I knew the word - schveinhoot. Sam Rosner used to call people that as some kind of revenge for antisemitism. Not sure what time we called it quits, but what a fantastic time.

Next time I'm drinking beer I'll be packed w/ stories and half-assed songs all thanks to my trip here to Thailand again.

Ciao! (That's German for goodbye)

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Thai Dye

So the name doesn't have much to do w/ the entry - if at all. I just liked it.

Just kidding - it's very clever and deep. You might be intelligent and cultured enough to figure out what it really means if you finish this entry.

I'm drinking beer at the pool again while the Navy figures out how they canceled my flight w/out telling me. And while they do that, they're figuring out how to get me on a plane headed east

And while they do all that - I'm just traveling further and further into Thai culture.

Thais are renown for their kindness, honesty, respectfulness and loyalty. Most of these characteristics flourish from the deep roots of Buddhism here. This religion is ever present in their popular culture and government. There is no separation between the two. With all these wonderful aspects it's easy to forget how every culture has its downside.















The above photo was taken at Wat Pho - home of the shrines and tombs of Thailand's first eight monarchs and a statue of Buddha on his deathbed called the 'reclining Buddha.' Before entering any of temples, everyone must take off their shoes and leave them outisde. I understood this sign all too well.

One of their flaws, much like any other culture I know of, is discrimination. Literature doesn't explore this aspect very much. My Lonely Planet book serves me well here. It describes the people, culture, geography, history and everyday Thai lifestyle for people as a country and more geographically divided into regions. The authors wrote a very informative section of the book about the more all-encompassing characteristics of the culture. One area was gender.

The book lists three genders - man, woman and ladyboy. The authors go on to describe how the 'ladyboy' (or transsexual in our culture) has become a more accepted role in this society. Many boys who feel drawn to the more feminine aspects of life are encouraged to pursue life as a woman.















Hoever, I didn't see this. There are a ton of ladyboys (one of whom is killing us in pool above), but their acceptance is not equal. Just the other day I was following a ladyboy who was employed at the Pattaya Marriot Resort and Spa where we were staying. I went to hold the door open for her and a waitress rushed to the door. She demanded I walk first because this person is a ladyboy and they are less than us - well at least her and me.

It really took me back. I also began to realize no matter how different I am - I'm still farang. That's Thai for westerner or tourist. And just the same way we hate on gapers from the bay and our society as a whole would rather do w/out blacks and mexicans, I am farang - one of the fat and rich white people who come here to rape the country and at like an asshole while I consume everything in sight, believe I'm better than everyone else and act like I'm entitled to whatever I want while I don't take the time to learn or respect the local culture.



















Despite my best efforts to overcome all those stereotypes, I'm one of them. I've been discriminated against and it hurts. No matter what, I feel in some way I deserve it. It makes me appreciate this experience and place in life all that much more. I am farang. I guess we just can't help it.

Saturday, July 18, 2009

10 Years Between Two Eyes

This very same day in 1999 I was in this very country and most likely drinking the very same brand beer.

I was 19 years old and on my very first Navy deployment aboard USS Sacramento. I was an undesignated deck seaman who spent most of his days, all 12-18 hours of them, refueling the various ships in our battle group.

The best part about both my visits to Thailand that year were the experiences I had learning about myself, the culture and solidifying the best friendships I've ever had. I couldn't help but keep thinking about those cherished memories for during this weeks leading to this trip - exactly ten years later to the day.

I went through this whole phase of wanting to write down the way I remember things from that trip so they wouldn't be influenced by this trip. Now I'm a second-class petty officer w/ about ten years of Navy and life in general under my belt. Then I couldn't stop thinking about how I'll perceive things through the same two eyes with 10 more years between them. And here's the synopsis.

Nothing will truly set in till I'm back home in reality and begin to forget just how kind and friendly these people are. Its' those things that fade over time. Luckily, I'm remembering why my friends and I in STREAM Division had such a great time.

We were each experiencing something so absolutely far from anything we knew. Sharing that experience created a bond like no other. It wasn't the partying or the women. It wasn't the views or the weather. It wasn't the dirt-cheap prices or nearly lawless society. It was a group simultaneously being introduced to the nicest and most understanding culture we'd ever experienced. And for all the memories that will fade from my first two trips here - this trip reminded me why those were so special.

And right now I'm just taking it all in like I'll never experience it again...

There are two more Singha beers sitting next to me on ice. They just won't taste the same anywhere else.

Friday, July 17, 2009

Beat Down

I hadn't found a place to use these awesome photos yet, but the following is definitely appropriate. This is from a few days ago where I got to tango w/ some Thai boxers. The following entry is more appropriate - I think.



















By the time I got the midnight call to rework some stuff it was too late. I'd let more errors slip by. Numbers - I hate them in all forms. They're even worse when they involve repetition or are part of an equation. In this case they added up to me repeating the same mistake. This kind of stuff is my kryptonite.

It's these kinds of things that take me out. Admittedly, it's by my own choice. This time is completely different. Now I don't feel like falling out of the match. Now whether that's because the hit wasn't as hard or the fighter is stronger - I don't know for sure. Probably a stronger fighter, stronger hit and stronger will to get back up.















If you get blocked and hit in the face every time you drop a left hook, it's time to either use a different punch or change the way you throw a left hook. I'm doing both and that's the sign of a stronger and wiser fighter.

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Set Free

Every time I thought this trip couldn't get better - it did.



















Go to Asia - check.
Fly there first class - check
Take great photos - check
Get a ton of massage - check
Drink cheap beer - check
Gorge on incredible Thai food - check
Work with the most incredible people I've ever worked with - check
Get underway - check
Write Navy stories - check
Get underway on Thai carrier - check
Be treated like royalty on a Thai carrier - check
Make a positive impact on my bosses - check
Help my career - check
Buy wooden bowls - check
Meet thousands of the nicest people on the planet - check
See sea turtles - check
Receive embassador/police escort through country - check
Set free endangered sea turtles - check

Need I go on? Truth be told this trip is much more than the first few things that come to mind. It was my intention to keep an accurate account of my activities while in country. But when all this happened in the span of a few days w/ work to do as well - well...

I'll take available time over the next few days to recount the last few days. Keep checking back regularly.

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Thai 101 (in English)

I'm quickly learning that many people are quite well educated here. And despite the stigma attached to Thailand, many of these people are women working service positions - many with college degrees.

Just like in America - these 20-somethings are overeducated and underpaid.















Although she is not college educated, Thipjuta is among the most impressive people I've met here thus far. She spent at least two hours explaining, in great detail, the many ways to interchange nouns, conjugate and speak the masculine and feminine forms of the Thai language. She even made me a cheat sheet.

Thanks to her - it's not as difficult as it appeared. Her huge smile made it all that less intimidating. But that doesn't mean it's easy.

Here's some to get you started:

Pom - Me
Lao - Us
Kun - You
Kao - Them

Good morning/Hello - So-waat dee krap
What is your name? - Khun chue a-rai krab
My name is__ - Phom chue
How are you? - khun sai-bai dee mai krab
I'm fine/not fine - pom sai bai dee/ Mai koiy sa-baio

That's more than enough for now. Well maybe one more:

Chok dee krab!! (Good luck)

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Royal Thai Navy and Flight of the Concord

Yesterday was my first military assignment: head out to Sattahip Royal Thai Navy Base and take photos of the two arriving US Navy ships - USS Harpers Ferry and USS Crommelin.

The best part of the day was boarding the Thai aircraft carrier HTMS Chakri Naruebet (CV911) to take photos of the arriving ships. Check out the bow of this carrier - it's got a ramp for the aircraft as opposed to our catapult system. Thing looks pretty silly to me.



















The Thai guys weren't exactly cool w/ letting us on their ship - despite it being open for any civilian to embark. And they were doing it by the hundreds as we had to wait. After some Jedi mind tricks (calling their officer in charge), we were finally able to get on board and set up for the shoot.

I ended up posing for more pictures with the civilians than taking my own - including one where I held a young boy for a family portrait. Then it was back to business shooting.
















I was absolutely drenched from the intense Thai climate while my asian counterparts remained bone dry. The high yesteday was 97 degrees farenheit w/ about 85 percent humidity. As you can see, I was wearing thick cammies - the equivilent of a canvas tent in dark colors.

As for myself being back on a ship, both the Thai carrier and USS Harpers Ferry was a bit surreal, but incredibly familiar. Warships are warships and if you've lived on one long enough, there's very little readjustment when you revisit - if any at all.

After all that time on an aircraft carrier I figured it was time for some flight ops. Look at my UAV (unmanned arial vehicle) go!

A Night on the Town

Call it the quiet before storm.

This is the last of the Buddha holidays where no liquor is being served and last day before the Sailors go on liberty. Needless to say both those those events tomorrow will have a profound affect on Pattaya. I'll have a photo album up soon to show what it looks like before things get crazy.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Night at the Temple















In my efforts to do something a little (or a lot) more culturally enriching, I had a great deal of success last night during the Buddha Day candlelight ceremony at the temple here in Pattaya.

As previously noted, nearly all establishments along the infamous Walking Street and throughout the city - from the raciest of go-go bars to the classiest of hotels - were either closed or abstained from serving alcohol in observance of this holiday.















Most of the women and men who work and frequent those establishments were among the thousands kneeling alongside me - one of four white men.















Religion is religion. There's always something special to me about seeing someone worship to something greater than themselves - especially in this peaceful and soothing ceremony.















Thousands gathered to kneel around the statue of this Buddha. This particular statue may not appear as the same jolly little fat man most of us are accustomed to seeing. But this is, nonetheless, a statue of a younger and more fit Buddha.















I'm not religious per se, but I strongly believe in respecting individuals' religion. Spirituality is very important and if you cannot respect it you should not invite yourself to participate or observe the practice. In order to respect - you have to learn how things go.















The first thing I learned about Buddhist ceremonies is that they resemble the Christian worship services I grew up in. There's a lot of uncomfortable kneeling, there's a couple in the back w/ a very cranky and noisy child, elderly people who give those young parents the hairy eyeball, and a lot of repeating. Did I mention it's very uncomfortable?















For men, we can wear what we like. Women, however, are expected to dress w/ long sleeves and long pants. Not everyone did it, but most adhered to this custom. Everyone is expected to take off their shoes - and absolutely everyone did this.

The ceremony began after about 30 white-robed women filled the first few rows and kneeled. After about 45 minutes of what sounded like mass, everyone rose from their knees or indian-style sitting to light candles and incense. Despite the long kneel and language barrier, the whole experience was quite soothing and placid.














Led by the women in white - we circled the large central Buddha several times. The statue is surrounded by smaller statues where we placed our incense, candles and flowers at.



















The pictures are hardly what I hoped, but the entire experience was exactly what I was looking for this trip - I highly recommend it to anyone who has the opportunity.

Upon leaving the temple I met an older British man named Martin and his "girlfriend" who made him come to the ceremony amid their escapades. Her, their taxi driver, Martin and I all attended the same ceremony and there's something to be said about that.

Then Martin bought all of us some water and paid for my ride back to town. I bid goodnight as he rode off into the night with his girlfriend - who he says is at least in the ten best he knows in Pattaya.

Act Your Age

My last Thai visit I was 19 years old and barely a year out of high school with even less time in the Navy. I behaved accordingly.

This time around I'm a 29-year-old husband and father - and not acting accordingly. Rather than go out and buy underwear, I spent my money on a remote control helicopter. I couldn't resist. It's made of all flexible materials and can resist crashing.














Let's be honest though - we'll be luck if this sucker makes out of country.

I did, however, get a fantastic manicure and pedicure for a whopping 300 baht - roughly about $10 American.














Tonight it's off to the Buddhist temple for a candle ceremony. It's part of Buddha Day here in Thailand. Most establishments, including the raciest girlie and go-go bars will abstain from serving alcohol to kick off three months of alcohol fasting for many and temple life for a chosen few.

There are shrines like this one all over the place. Some joker here thought Buddha needed a beer.

Monday, July 6, 2009

Under Where?

As you know, the Navy brought me here to Thailand. I just found out I'll be getting flown out to a US Navy ship and then to a Thai aircraft carrier! This is quickly turning into the trip of a lifetime.

But before I get underway, I'm getting underwear! Apparently it's time to retire this sad stack.



















As I considered going for another massage I remembered the facial expressions of yesterday's masseuse Djip and today's housekeeper - especially when they saw the family man special drawers. An awkward look like, "real nice buddy" was all the motivation I needed to find some underpants.

I usually update every ten years like clockwork - and that pretty much means I bought these here in Thailand in 1999. While things aren't quite that bad, it's not time to set a precedent.

So today's challenge is to barter on Walking St. for the cheapest and most comfortable underwear this daddy can buy! Let's set our spending at $10 American.



















While I'm at it the manicure and pedicure are going to happen too!

Djip and the Thai VW















With just three hours under my belt in Pattaya it was time for my first Thai massage of the trip. After consulting my counterparts Tom and his family, I chose the place closest to the hotel. Actually this was second closest - first was a hair salon that did foot massage too.















The grand total for two hours of the best massage your money can buy is $25 American. Not only did I get a fantastic (and well needed) massage, I met a fantastic local masseuse - named Djip.



She's like me - 29 years old with a daughter who's right around four years old. Unlike most of her Thai counterparts, she's working today. It's the first of three sacred Buddhist holidays. But she has to make money and likes what she does.

Djip, which is a nickname her mother gave her, grew up in small agricultural town. Djip is "baby chicken." She used to sound like that as a young child. Now she's all grown up, gone to massage school in Bangkok and spent the last two years doing thousands of massages on "Farang" (tourists) like me.

But unlike me, Djip is a single mother. Her husband and daughter's father died in a motorcycle accident shortly after their daughter was born. Since then, she's been paying 1000 baht every month for a room w/ no furniture. As tourism keeps leveling off, she's concerned about how to continue paying rent.

A true embassador for Thais, Djip does not represent her sisters a block away - nor does she seem interested in the money they make. Djip is my first friend here and I will be visiting again soon.















As for the owner of these sweet VWs - he's not so nice. Unlike his American counterparts, he is unfriendly and doesn't know what year they are. What kind of VW owner is he. He was pretty stoked to know I drive one though...

Sunday, July 5, 2009

Good Morning Vietnam! (from Pattaya)

Adrian Croanauer was a military journalist. The US military started coming to this place for RnR just a few years before he did his thing in Vietnam.

Well the US military is still here with journalists (public affairs elements) in tact - me and another lucky guy.

This is Pattaya and it's a world away from anything back in the states. Las Vegas is absolutely owned by Pattaya and its counterpart across the sea in Phuket. Anything goes in these towns that sex and the US military built one happy ending-at-a-time.

What was then still exists and is evident by the beer bars and girls we passed while my taxi drive got lost on the way here. It's presence is unavoidable, but it's part of the culture. I'm doing my best not to let it weigh me down - trying to focus on the more positive aspects of this truly amazing place.

I'll be reporting more after my first daily massage in 3 - 2 - 1!

NOW!

2 a.m. in Bangkok

Even though the sun is down - Bangkok is aesthetically mind blowing. Even the people in this metropolis have a better attitude than most cities in the US - not to mention the bus full of incredibly rude French people I was with.

Finally cleaned up and settled in - it's time to hit the hay before my two-hour ride to Pattaya in a few hours. Looks like the hotel there is just as impressive. I'll be sure to post more photos as I get the chance.

1st Class


A rough start to my trip landed me at the Rogue Brewery at PDX for lunch. I met some locals and devised a scheme to kick this trip off in style.

New-found buddy Nick and I decided it was time to upgrade to first class for the 10-hour trip from PDX to Tokyo.

Well played Nick. Not only did we not get busted, but got three courses free with an open bar. Hot towels, full-reclining leather seats, an outlet for the computer and even slippers and ear plugs.

Well things are starting to look up from the fiasco that was my last week trying to leave the US.

Reporting from Narita Airport in Tokyo, Japan - Jason Tross

Friday, July 3, 2009

PDX Bound

Actually I'm already there.

I mean bound like the kind where things are all tied up and no one's going anywhere.

I'm not going anywhere till tomorrow. Just a slight mix-up - I wasn't aware passengers absolutely must report at least two hours before boarding in order to board international flights. But I know that now.

So I'm sitting here at complimentary beverage hour. That really means anyone in the hotel gets to get schlitzed on cheap booze and pass out in their rooms. It's getting quite popular here in the last 30 minutes.

After a couple beers I'm getting ready to sign off. It's my full intention to be early to the airport tomorrow.

Thailand will have to wait a day.